I Am In Ivrea

Specifically I’m in the middle of day two of the Battle of the Oranges. I have found a bar with a large Wifi sign in the window. I wish I’d found it last Friday but not to worry. I have just uploaded 158 photos from the last couple of hours. There’s got to be a couple of good ones there, surely to God. I’m going to eat a sandwich and get back into it. Yesterday I was throwing oranges. Today I’m taking photos. It’s like being a war photographer, without the death. Having said that, the family I’m staying with fa parte della morte, therefore, by extension, io sono la morte. La Morte is one of the nine teams of official orange throwers. The second oldest. From 1954. This carnival is really, I mean really insane.

The family I’m staying with are the kindest, loveliest, funniest family I could ever have hoped to have been hosted by. Within two hours of arriving on Thursday, I was dressed like this…

The next night I was a pirate in a parade.

Ivrea is beautiful. The carnival is complex and multi-faceted. And genuinely hilarious. I could not have enjoyed myself more without, you know, lying down with someone. And despite the main thrust of the carnival being a battle, I have not seen one moment of unpleasantness. Actually, that’s not true – I did see one, but it was caused by a slightly unhinged American woman who has a terrible habit of hitting men in the face when she doesn’t like their energy. She’ll get over it, hopefully.

Anyway, I’ve got to get on. This was just a little catch-up. I’m staying here for the funeral of the carnival tomorrow and then – I think – on to see a virtual friend in Belgium. Then Las Fallas. Then maybe a couple of weeks writing everything up properly and trying to sell myself again. We shall see. I can’t keep relying on the kindness of virtual strangers. And friends. More of which later.

In the meantime, stammi bene. Ti voglio bene. A presto. x


About the Author

I am Karl Webster. I wrote these words. If you liked them, you’ll be overjoyed to know that there are plenty more where they came from. So you should definitely sign up to my newsletter if you haven’t already.

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